A review of SS23 Cultural Canvas Collection by Sassy Muse: Why Raise the bar?

When Stella Chidimma Osuju announced the launch of her 2023 collection, it attracted the attention of fashion critics, media paparazzi, and fashion enthusiasts ready to explore the next big sensation.

In the fashion industry, it is no news that fashion designers constantly churn out new collections to display their artistic flavour, play around with colours, and reaffirm their positions as talented creatives. Fashion collections aren’t a new development in the industry as most high-end fashion brands release their collections two to four times a year.

Fashion collections are meant to be produced with some level of intentionality. It goes beyond just creating regular garments; it also involves sculpting unique garments tailored to the target audience. The goal isn’t to craft a breath-taking outfit but to create one that suits the people it is meant for.

Over the years, Stella Chidimma Osuju has created a name for her brand, Sassy Muse, through her unique collections. Since its inception in 2019, Sassy Muse has launched three collections each year consisting of remarkable outfits.

What started as a bold experiment to test the waters has generated a thriving fashion brand, satisfying the needs of fashion lovers.

However, in all her designs, something stands out.

As an African who lived in Nigeria, Stella had grown to love the Ankara fabric. This love has extended to learning her craft, raising her curiosity and desire to scale Sassy Muse beyond the African fashion terrain. She has remained vocal about transforming the Ankara fabric into a household staple for women of all races.

One of the challenges most African fashion designers face is the versatility of the Ankara material. Excluding Africa, this fabric hasn’t gained widespread dominance in other continents, which are still fixated on fabrics like velvet, satin, denim, wool, linen, viscose, polyester, and chiffon.

The easiest way to promote the Ankara fabric is for designers to be creative with their style and create appropriate designs for people of all races.

In the three years of running her fashion brand, Stella has committed to creating African-inspired outfits for women of diverse backgrounds that boast of the deep rich history of Africa.

Her designs have been characterised by jaw-dropping prints that captivate one’s breath. For a new talent still testing the waters, Stella has exhibited the skills and craftsmanship required to rise to the top.

For those who attended previous collections, one thing is clear. Stella knows how to raise the bar with every piece in her brand’s collections.

But will she continue to ride on this momentum? Let’s take a look.

The collection name for 2023 is Cultural Canvas. By definition, cultural canvas connotes designs representing a particular tribe or ethnicity. From the collection name, we expect to see afro-infused designs portraying the beauty of African culture while giving room for inclusivity.

The first outfit in the 2023 Cultural Canvas collection is a two-piece shirt and trousers styled with black fabric and a tangerine orange Ankara.

On the Ankara fabric is a butterfly-shaped motif with strings of black antennae. In the middle of the butterfly are brown leaves lying conveniently on four corners.

This Ankara print was the first point of attraction as its beauty radiates, leaving spectators in awe. Orange is a strong and attention-grabbing colour, and mixing it with brown, a subtle colour, works well.

While the designer did not produce the print, we applaud her delightful fabric choice. One of the qualities of a good designer is proper knowledge of fabric, which she executed excellently.

The upper part of the outfit is a long-sleeved shirt designed with Ankara and black fabric. The shirt has a round neck styled with the Ankara, and underneath it is a round opening with the fabric merging seamlessly with the neckline.

The bishop sleeves slide down from the shoulder to the wrist, flowing seamlessly into a black fabric that covers a tiny part of the hand.

If we are to dissect this style, we would say fashion has evolved. In the past, female shirts were boring with monotonous styles, but the blend of different fabrics has enhanced the beauty of these shirts.

One stand-out in this design is the integration of the Ankara and black fabrics, which the designer achieved seamlessly. Using the same Ankara fabric on the neckline gave it a balanced look because if the black fabric had been left plain, it would have been a boring shirt.

It is impossible to skip this style without getting caught moping at the trousers. We spent an entire minute staring at the creativity of this outfit. The designer spiced the straight Ankara trousers by attaching ruffles to both sides, from the waist to a little above the knee. Being able to achieve these ruffles without them being puffy or flaring up is commendable.

However, extra attention needs to be paid to the positioning of fabrics. There is a white line on the first ruffle attached to the waist, which looks like a garment production mistake. Things like this are to be hidden by the designer either by weaving it inside where it is not seen or cutting that part out.

For accessories, we have an open-toe black block heel and gold drop earrings. Opting for a black heel aligns with the dominant black fabric used for the shirt, while the gold earrings blend with the brown colour of the Ankara print.

With the recent fashion trends and requests for more domineering wear, this two-piece outfit has market viability, due to the ruffles on the trousers. The GenZs, who are crazy about unconventional styles, will connect with it. The designer could also consider replicating this design, but this time as a jumpsuit.

It may seem as though Stella has a thing for exciting sleeves. Going for a fiery look, we have a silk tie and dye fabric, popularly known by the Yorubas in Nigeria as Adire. Recently, there has been an influx of beautiful Adire clothing, from shorts to shirts, gowns and trousers. Capitalising on the growing trend, the designer used Adire to craft a stunning button-down long-sleeve shirt and straight trousers.

For the shirt, the designer opted for a turtle neck with silver buttons. The sleeves are decorated with two rows of black satin ruffles from the bust line to the wrist. Completing the sleeve is a black fabric held with a silver button.

If there is one thing the Sassy Muse brand has taught us, it is to expect the unexpected. Stella’s ability to innovate and churn out inconceivable styles is an added advantage.
This outfit is a total artistic attraction. Though minimal, it exudes class, elegance, and boisterousness.

To achieve a 10/10 with this look, adding an extra button at the bottom of the shirt would be better. While it screams class, it also gives off a modest vibe. Therefore, a sixth button would cover the bell button.

We understand the creativity that goes into designing a piece and are not discrediting the designer’s prowess. However, substituting the two rows of satin ruffles for one would better balance the look. A better option would be putting one row of ruffles at the centre of the sleeves.

The minimal accessories, striking pose, and ingenuity give this outfit a sophisticated appeal. It looks convenient for professional engagements, especially for corporate women in every space.

At this point, we might have to change the name ‘Stella Chidinma Osuju’ to the ‘Queen of Sleeves’ because she has proven herself to understand the dynamics of sleeves.

This outfit is giving the boss lady vibes. The pose, body silhouette, accessories, and styling communicate the designer’s intention, which is the ‘corporate CEO’.

The shirt is a mix of Ankara and black fabrics at different angles. It has a cape-like collar resting on the shoulder of the black material woven into the Ankara.

There is a lot going on with this shirt. Let’s take a moment to pause and stare.
First, the idea behind the cape is intriguing.

The two-piece capes are well-trimmed and structured with black fabric around the bottom of the sleeves. The meticulous attention to detail put into integrating both fabrics shows the designer’s excellent craftsmanship.

Pairing this gorgeous shirt with straight Ankara trousers projects the style of the shirt. With just a side zip, the designer wraps up this look.

If we were to describe the Cultural Canvas 2023 Collection in three words, it would be jaw-dropping, inspiring, and artistic.

Stella Chidinma Osuju has always maintained her stance on creating sustainable fashion convenient for women of all races, and these pieces unveiled reaffirmed that. These styles are not just inclusive with European design appeal; they are timeless. Ankara materials have a long life span and are the perfect choice for eco-friendly clothing. They are definitely the right choice.

Stella Chidinma Osuju has again raised the bar!

With the pace at which African fashion designers are creating exceptional attires, we might find ourselves in a thrilling fashion world with designs suitable to our tastes.