A review of Ankara fabrics in high fashion: Exploring traditional prints with modern design

Ankara fabrics have been a symbol of African identity and craftsmanship for several generations. The textile is worn as both daily attire and ceremonial clothing across West Africa, serving a crucial cultural significance.
It tells a story of social status, history and African heritage. With eye-catching colours and intricate patterns, the distinctiveness of Ankara prints is easily recognisable.
In recent years, the global fashion landscape has witnessed a fascinating shift. What was once recognised as a traditional and regional fabric limited to the Africans is now taking the fashion stage by storm. Ankara fabric has gone beyond origins finding its way within high fashion circles.
Top fashion houses and designers, as well as fashion influencers, now embrace the Ankara fabric creating a cross-culture bridge in fashion. Ankara fabrics sprinkle African arts and fashion into the contemporary haute-couture space. What makes Ankara’s entry into the high-fashion world so compelling is the delicate balance between retaining its African identity and appealing to the global audience.
Fashion has transcended beyond being mere clothing to a reflection of culture, power, and influence. And Ankara comfortably sits well with this. It is not just about how the designers used the fabric to craft modern styles, but how they interpret the significance. Incorporating Ankara in modern styles and its significance in high fashion is an undeniable shift in the fashion scene.
Ankara’s role in high fashion has been embraced by global icons such as Naomi Campbell, who has been spotted at several fashion events and on red carpets with these vibrant prints. Their influence has also contributed to Ankara turning into a sought-after trend among fashion-forward audiences worldwide.
But the high-fashion adoption of Ankara doesn’t stop at celebrities; top designers like Stella McCartney and Mariam Ipogha have incorporated African prints into their collections, with Ankara being the central fashion element. Designers like Mariam Ipogha and Lisa Folawiyo are at the forefront of blending Ankara with modern, cutting-edge fashion while keeping its cultural essence.
Their collections highlight the versatility of the fabric, which runs from sleek tailored skirts and blouses to enthralling two-piece jumpsuits. These designers redefining what it means to wear Ankara makes more than just a cultural statement but also a fashion-forward choice. Mariam, who is the visionary behind the Mater Dei brand is known for weaving together elements of modern fashion with the vibrancy of African arts and traditions. Through her brand, Mariam creates collections that transcend traditional clothing. Each design serves as a three-dimensional art piece engaging the senses and showcasing a hands-on approach to traditional techniques of embellishment.
Mater Dei is known to be at the forefront of modern women’s fashion, presenting demi-couture creations that empower and celebrate the essence of womanhood. The brand honours both individual uniqueness and the collective spirit of femininity. Each piece of outfit designed by Mater Dei enhances the natural beauty and confidence of each wearer.
One of the Mater Dei designs is a skirt and blouse made from Ankara fabric. The shirt, with a front button, is designed with a standard collar. It can serve both casual and formal events. The shirt is made from crepe fabric with the right sleeve made from Ankara fabric. The shirt is made into a fitted silhouette designed to outline your body. A beautiful design, right?
This simple captivating piece radiates a high level of sophistication and elegance without excessive designs. The skirt is designed into a minimalistic three-quarter length. The skirt is made into a flattering silhouette complementing the shirt. This piece radiates confidence, elegance and sophistication without sacrificing comfort. This design from Mariam is an exceptional testament to the role of Ankara taking the forefront in high fashion.
Complementing this captivating design with several fashion accessories enhances the look you portray. Luxury, power, and influence. A stiletto and a beautiful handbag greatly complement this wear. It best fits both a professional and casual setting. So, you don’t have to bother about what to wear every single day if this great piece makes it to your wardrobe.
Another wonderful piece from Mariam is a two-piece of shirts and trousers made from two different Ankara fabrics that complement each other. The blouse is made from Ankara with a white background with vibrant yellow and red patterns. It is a minimalistic design with fluffs running from the front to the back of the blouse. The fluff forms the arm of the sleeveless blouse which is designed in a tube form. The blouse is a fitted silhouette designed to outline the shape of the wearer.
The pants are made from a red background Ankara fabric with yellow vibrant patterns. With a flattering silhouette, the pan is made to outline the wearer’s natural shape without being too fitted or loose. The slightly flattering silhouette of the pants complements the fitted proportion of the blouse creating a balanced structure.
The choice of colour used to craft this beautiful piece showcases Mariam’s design prowess and choice of fabric. Not only does she choose fabrics that best bring out her designs, but her choice of fabric complements the designs. This beautiful piece from Mater Dei can transition between casual and formal events. And yes, it offers the very best in terms of comfort. The sleeveless blouse allows for more comfort making the dress suitable for warmer regions.
Complementing this piece with different fashion elements enhances the elegance and sophistication. A heel footwear and a simple handbag double the elegance you radiate from this piece.
Ankara’s growing presence in high fashion is a testament to how traditions can evolve into a global sensation without losing their essence. When designers approach Ankara with creativity in mind, it births garments that are both visually appealing, stunning and culturally significant. The skilful blend of old and new (traditional fabric and modern styles) offers endless possibilities for innovation in the fashion world. Ankara is no longer confined to the Friday fashion landscape but now forms a significant part of a larger, global fashion conversation that values cultural diversity.
Ankara’s journey into high fashion is an exciting development. Mater Dei, which contributes to this growth is more than just a fashion label. It is a revolutionary movement aiming to redefine the future of luxury fashion. By infusing inclusivity and empowerment, the brand has consistently created a world where high fashion is not only a symbol of elegance but also of universal accessibility and acceptance. With the vision of forging a path towards a future where every woman feels celebrated and powered, Mater Dei establishes a transformative power of fashion.

Ankara fabrics have transcended their traditional roots to become a significant player in high fashion, merging vibrant African heritage with contemporary design. This evolution is exemplified by designers like Mariam Ipogha and brands like Mater Dei, which showcase Ankara’s versatility through modern silhouettes that celebrate femininity.
The fabric’s bold patterns and colours resonate with global audiences, allowing it to bridge cultural divides while retaining its identity. This fusion of tradition and innovation not only enhances the fashion landscape but also empowers women, making Ankara a symbol of both elegance and cultural pride.
As Ankara continues to gain prominence, it exemplifies how fashion can be a vehicle for cultural expression and inclusivity, paving the way for future generations of designers to explore and redefine what high fashion means.