Oludera Atelier creates the Ancestral Draft Collection for the Ran mi lowo movie premiere
Oludera Atelier, a steadily emerging Nigerian fashion label, releases its latest capsule collection, Ancestral draft; with which the brand made a notable statement at the intimate premiere of the movie, Ran mi lowo (Help me) on April 18, 2023.
Several members of the film’s production team donned pieces from this collection, bringing attention to the designer’s interpretations of heritage. At the helm of this brand is Olufunke Ajenifuja, a fashion illustrator and pattern maker whose technical background is evident in this new work.
Ancestral draft is a concise yet deliberate collection of sleeveless maxi dresses and statement tote bags that lean heavily into cultural patchwork, and thoughtful shaping.
The dresses employ vertical panels that guide the eye from shoulder to hem. While the design may appear simple at first glance, closer inspection reveals a layered design language, one that navigates geometry, heritage, and the female form with equal reverence.
Her illustration skills are evident in the fabric combination choices: the juxtaposition of plain coloured fabric (in black and white) against bold African prints is calculated and context-aware.
The wax prints at the hem, reminiscent of Kente and Ankara motifs, ground the garments in cultural reference while functioning artistically as a visual anchor that balances the stark verticality above.
Technically, her patternmaking demonstrates awareness of standard points of measure – from shoulder drop to waist shaping and garment length, the proportions remain consistent with elegant continuity.
However, in some cases, the side draping in the black dress lacks directional control, causing the hemline to fight slightly with the garment’s vertical design, disrupting what could have been a cleaner fall. Construction-wise, the garments showcase a competent level of finish, though not consistently across all sections. Topstitching along embellishment seams is generally straight and reinforced, demonstrating basic control.
Yet, the seam allowances, especially around the hip zones, show inconsistency, which may not only affect garment longevity but also its fit integrity over time.
The Kente fabric inserts at the hem are heavier in weight than the base fabric, which brings some grounding to the dresses; however, the hemline slightly buckles, suggesting either insufficient underlining or inadequate seam balancing.
The bags are constructed from thick canvas and Ankara-infused panels, and they demonstrate a better level of finishing. The embroidery is sharp, the stitch lines are reinforced, especially at the straps, indicating functional intention. Pockets, closures, and comfort elements are minimal.
These garments are best suited to statement occasions such as cultural events, gallery shows, or premieres like the one they debuted in. Ancestral draft contributes positively to Oludera Atelier’s growing portfolio.
It demonstrates that Olufunke Ajenifuja is capable of translating illustrative storytelling into wearable forms, and her sensibility for line, balance, and restraint is commendable.
A more intentional approach to seam management and interior finishing would move the Oludera Atelier brand from promising to precise.
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